I left off last time pondering the chain-line, and a bigger rear tire. I got the narrower spindle bottom-bracket (Nashbar, another $28), and a 700c x 47mm (1.85") Continental Comfort Contact rear tire (Amazon $32). Both are worth the trouble. The chain-line looks better, and the ride is softer - even with the tire at/near it's max of 58 PSI. I would prefer the tire had the reflective band on the sidewall (like the picture at Amazon).
I've had some time using the shifters now - after some time (200 miles) you get used to the "throw" for a single clean shift, and reaching over to feather the front derailleur after a few shifts to the rear. For a little while I was thinking "maybe I ought to just get some grip shifts" (in my opinion the next best fitting of the utility bike style, with easy shifting), but that thought passed. I did have to file one of the bosses on the bike frame - the front shifter wouldn't develop sufficient friction resist the derailleur's spring tension. The shifter itself is very simple - a fastener compresses a couple of washers to develop friction to "hold" a shift. The fastener was "bottoming" on the boss before the washers were compressed sufficiently. With a few minutes of careful filing, all worked well.
After a few rides, I added laces to the Brooks saddle, as I did on my other one.
I definitely like this. I can tilt the nose down a little, and the saddle seems to "break in" more locally to my sit bones, and ends up very comfortable after a few hundred miles. I'm riding 6-7 days a week now, and 2-3 of those are done without bike shorts (not bare-bottomed, just in regular shorts). I can't say I notice much difference (those without shorts are short, easy rides). So, again, no regrets on the Brooks saddles.
I've got the handlebars wrapped in Planet Bike "earth" colored foam bar-tape (Amazon $14). They're developing an appropriate "dirty" look after a short while.
I also found room for an awesome bell. It's a Crane Suzu "Lever Strike Bell." It's unbelievably loud (in spite of my acoustics degree) bell that just rings forever (I usually have to tap the perimeter to mute it after a few seconds). Already the brass is getting tarnished with drips of sweat, and grubby finger-prints - PERFECT!
Although I haven't commuted yet, I've got a beautiful rack on the back. It's a Wald chrome steel rack (Amazon $17).
A couple of silver Avenir water bottle cages (Amazon $6 each) give me some water carrying capacity.
I really wanted one of those Brooks D-shaped tool bags, but couldn't bring myself to spend $100, yet (perfect Christmas wish list item - hint, hint). Instead I moved my Timbuk2 seat bag over from my mountain bike. The large is big enough for 1 spare tube, 2 tier levers, an allen wrench set, car key, and phone (phone is a tight fit, but it fits).
I've put about 300 miles on the bike - about 250 training / 50 utility (I prefer it for training on paved roads, and it's fine for utility duty / utility speed on grass, single-track, and gravel with those big tires). I really love the vertical / forward position of the bull-horn bars - I can ride all day in that position. The foam tape and Big Apple tire soak up vibrations pretty good, and it takes a lot of moisture / sweat to make me think about gloves. There are times I consider a 2nd layer of foam on the grips - we'll see as training rides approach 3-4 hours in preparation for my race in August.
I can't say I'm anxious to change the brake lever - what's there works fine (I would also need to change the caliper to one compatible with shorter throw road levers).
That big disc stops the bike and / or bike with trailer just fine. I just have to watch braking while dismounting on gravel or dirt (i.e. encounter a log on a trail, with kids in buggy). That causes slippage...
I still want to build a "dedicated" rear wheel, using a silver rim, with 36 spokes, and no disc rotor (that's the "road wheel" for my mountain bike). But, again, the bike is "complete", but likely never "finished."